Sex with Chinese Characteristics

Elliott Spitzer in China

This posting is PG 13. If you are too young to read stuff like this, don’t and go do something else.

This is about sex in China………but first some perspective……….

When I was delivering mail at IBM in the middle of the 1960’s the Poughkeepsie Laboratory manager, whose name doesn’t matter now, was fired for banging his secretary on his office desk. She hadn’t objected, but the colleague who came upon them and had the unmitigated gall to enter without knocking apparently thought it was bad form. Everybody quickly learned the story, but IBM only said the fellow had left the company for personal reasons. They said nothing about his paramour.

Nelson Rockefeller, former Governor of New York, Vice President at one time and rich guy who loved art and women is reputed to have died while with a twenty something lover not his wife when he was seventy. His wife, whose name happened to be Happy, was not at the time, but never said much about it publically. Rocky’s son later said he didn’t know for sure about the stories but he hoped if they were true, that the girlfriend made his dad happy…………….lovely thought, obviously from another guy.

For generations, “names” in the news, men almost exclusively, have had lapses of libido. Jefferson with Hemings, Roosevelt with Lucy Mercer (and others), Eisenhower with Sommersby, Patton with Dietrich and others, Kennedy with more than a few; Gary Hart, Jimmy Swaggart, Clinton, Spitzer, now Sanford of South Carolina. Jack Welch, who many rank a genius in business with GE suffered from peccadilloes that barely dented his reputation or speaking fees. The entertainment crowd basks in lascivious living that either enhances their box office, regains lost publicity or gets them on talk shows to laugh off what would otherwise be worthy of scarlet letters sewn onto their shirts- at least in America. The sexism with that is ridiculous. Charlie Sheen is a hero and celebrated flamboyant playboy for paying five figures to spend time with working girls and his Madam went to jail. Deborah Jean Palfrey, the so-called Washington Madam, hung herself when facing prison time for providing paid entertainment to the unnamed Washington elite.

For many of even the most powerful among us, the need for unmitigated adoration from a female or the temporary illusion of it as shoring up for the big game is inescapable. Whatever the conventional feedback or payoff received for a job well done, it doesn’t seem to provide enough reassurance for the next one and can rarely match the kick provided by a lover — real or imagined. Everyone denies it, from Newt Gingrich to Barney Frank, but it seems all too true.

America has weird contradictions…………Elliott Spitzer lost his job and credibility doing the same thing that Richard Gere portrayed with a lot more audacity and arguably better taste in “Pretty Woman,” a box office smash that has become part of our lexicon and a renowned “chick flick.” “Lost-in-Translation” and “The Girl in the Cafe” portray May-close-to-December romance the former with two married people; the latter with a guy in his sixties and a young girl. The “Before Sunset” “Before Sunrise” films of Julie Delpy and Ethan Hawke celebrate the same thing that South Carolina’s Governor Sanford is getting clubbed for. “You’ll miss your plane.” She says. “I know.” he replies forgetting his wife and child at home in America as he stays in the apartment with his love interest in Paris.

People have gone to jail for the kinds of things alluded to in films like “Lolita” and “Beautiful Girls.” Timothy Hutton had something for “Marty” played by Natalie Portman and she for him – ok in the movies and for introducing notions like “Old Souls,” for children who seem to “get it,” but in real-life America it’s jail time and censure. What’s up with that?

God and nature make young women (girls at puberty actually), attractive because God and nature want them active when they are young, strong and healthy because it increases the odds of keeping the species going. The parts of us that make us more human and less beasts cause a little hesitation until these kids get minds of their own because it seems less unseemly, but the attraction was put their by forces other than morality and brain chemistry always threatens to win out over logic.

This sounds terrible to say, but nature has no use for old people for whom procreation is only a memory or whose production of new people would be inefficient or defective. That’s what makes the struggle between head and heart so confounding and what terrorizes souls trying to do what’s right despite the siren’s songs of youth and beauty. I’m not sure anyone is immune from this; some just get vaccinated somehow.

America has a weird way with sex and morality. In 2005, the Academy Award for the best original song went to “It’s Hard Out Here for a Pimp,” sung live on network television with only the only heed paid to morality was swapping out “bitch” for “witch” in the lyrics. The whole theme of the song — profiting from selling women for sex — was untouched.

When I lived in the northwest part of Virginia, where there were more churches than Seven-Eleven’s and Evangelical Christians and Mennonites vied for souls, it was common for kids to have more step relations than blood relations and not unheard of for a woman to have four or five kids by four or five different guys. I knew of one young woman whose first date with her newest husband was in the maternity ward where she was in false labor with the child of some other guy. The self-righteousness and hypocrisy of people in that part of the country is astounding.   It’s the leaders and spokespeople of this crowd who go around preaching how to live to the rest of us.

Now this may come as a surprise, but in some places, unsullied by descendants of Puritans and other religious zealots who fled their native lands because they weren’t tolerated too well, human nature and human frailty are a little better integrated into society. While the Italian Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi felt the need to declare he had never paid a hooker, he had no issue admitting to having girlfriends one of whom was an eighteen-year-old girl whose birthday party he felt obliged to attend. At the time he was seventy-three. When French politician Francois Mitterand died, his wife and their children were joined at his funeral by his mistress and their daughter – very civilized. Nobody seemed to care much, except for the American press.

It’s different in China.

China has 5,000 years of civilization and ingrained in the culture is tacit acceptance of sexual diversions and dalliance in the same way that sports betting is ingrained in America – technically illegal, but something everyone does, with barely any concealment: college brackets and results of March Madness are everywhere; even President Obama alluded to his picks.

It’s like that with sex in China.

Craig’s List for cities in China are replete with ads for nubile nymphs delivered to your door, but aimed mostly at the expat crowd and priced accordingly. There are no cops or attorneys general pressing Craig’s List to police its ads.

The locals live differently.

It is almost impossible to wander the streets of cities in China, large or small and not encounter sex for sale in one form or another. Almost every hotel, even western hotels, have saunas (massage operations) in or adjacent to them and the vast majority offer “special massage” which means just what you think it does — the happy endings which were the topic of several episodes of the HBO series “Mind of the Married Man.”

In the distance of a city block on a street not far from my apartment in Shanghai, there are no less than eight store-front shops in which sit women in negligees beckoning to passersby, especially foreigners, but accepting all comers. The shops are cheek-by-jowl to metal shops, small groceries, bike repair shops and all sorts of commercial enterprises, not tucked away in sleazy alleys or “red-light” districts. The women range in age from their early twenties to pretty old and from drop-dead gorgeous to ridiculous.

At the other end of the spectrum are stand-alone saunas — in a few cases four story stand-alone buildings, with lockers, showers, dozens of male shower attendants and masseurs who will scrub you, front and back for an hour or more; rooms filled with lazy-boy lounge chairs including chair-side food and beverage service by comely, uniformed attendants and then, at one’s leisure, a line-up of twelve to twenty identically uniformed beauties from which to pick for ninety minutes of show and tell in a room that can match the best of a five star hotel (as can the entire decor and service of the best of these places).

After one selects his lovely, she takes him by the hand and leads him to a private room, well appointed, usually mirrored, and often with a shower or bath. What happens then is a ritual that defies description, unsuitable for this narrative certainly, but think “cat bath” and you’ll get an idea of part of the preliminaries. The price for the best of these places, including food and beverages and as long as you like in a lazy-boy watching TV or sleeping or whatever, is less than $100, inclusive.

I asked a Chinese friend about all of this and why so many, so obvious and so elegant. He told me that after the Chinese government changed the laws to curtail corruption and sanctioned cash payments as bribes with jail time or other harsh punishment, nights out at the sauna became a popular substitute for smoothing business transactions and the number of places exploded. There are no “skyboxes” in China and golf outings are rare as are convention suites in Vegas or Atlantic City. So the saunas are influence peddling with Chinese characteristics.

At the other end of the spectrum, simple massage and the touch of one human to another is an art in China, highly honored and as common as a burgher in the States. Foot massage, full body massage, oil massage, every conceivable kind of massage employs thousands if not millions of practitioners all over the country. For some, up-selling to “special” massages is offered, but for many it’s legit through and through. Yes, they do walk on your back, holding onto cloth straps hung over ceiling mounted bars that parallel the massage tables/beds. At a good place, like the one I frequented in Xiamen you can get almost two hours of bliss including hot moist towels on your back and those small feet for about US$25 or less.

There is a curious middle-ground I’ve only seen in Shanghai….. a sensual massage with limits that seems to satisfy some human need in a population where men outnumber women by a bunch. In some places…………storefronts open to the street………..men of all ages can get the touch of a woman, being caressed really while fully clothed, including the woman masseuse reaching up under the guys shirt and caressing his crotch to the point of arousal. No touching of the girl’s sensitive parts is permitted or attempted, other than to hold the girl’s waist or leg while she sits on a small stool next to the massage bed (usually a cot with a bamboo mat on it) and massages the guy’s upper body and legs. It costs about 20 RMB for an hour of this pseudo-affection, which is less than three bucks.

Selling sex is technically illegal in China as is profiting from selling the sex services of others. Nobody seems to care much about that unless some official oversteps or publicity from the western media may make China look bad. There was a case here a few weeks back where a massage girl stabbed and killed an official who pressed her for more services than she was comfortable providing. She was acquitted and the focus was on the corrupt official trying to use his official position for favors rather than on any other aspect of their encounter. From time-to-time local law enforcement will shut down places, but that’s usually because they are negotiating a new agreement with the owners of an establishment or reacting to too much notoriety. Remember, many of these places are as prominent in neighborhoods as McDonalds or KFC.

More importantly, China is very protective of its image and to prevent western media exploiting what it would undoubtedly term “Chinese decadence” officials in China will sanitize the streets from time-to-time, particularly in areas subject to high traffic by foreigners and in advance of major international events like the Beijing Olympics for example. The 2010 World Expo in Shanghai is having the same effect reportedly, but only in the areas where foreigners and especially the foreign press and dignitaries are likely to go. For locals and Chinese businessmen, their favorite haunts are likely to remain untouched.

The whole idea of concubines and second or third wives came out of China and you’ve got to wonder if 5,000 years of experience maybe brought accommodation with reality not yet achieved in the west, or at least not yet achieved in Puritan if hypocritical America. It’s as though the Chinese say “Hey, this is how people are (men anyway), so we’ll adapt, be happy and knock off all the fuss.” Of course jilted lovers are still jilted lovers and betrayed women are still as betrayed even if they idolize Richard Gere or Bill Murray or some other actor doing the same things they’d kill their husbands or boyfriends for.

Joseph Needham, a Cambridge researcher who studied the history of science and medicine in China for half a century died at 94 in 1995. When his wife Dorothy died, Needham married his “second wife” who we would call his mistress, a Chinese researcher who was Needham’s girlfriend for decades. She lived just down the street from the Needhams in Cambridge and according to Needham’s biographer, the three of them seemed to have reached an accommodation that permitted them to dine and travel together as old friends. Needham never lost his prominence in Cambridge over his personal dalliances. The Needham Research Institute at Cambridge, dedicated to the study of Chinese Scientific History was opened in 1985 by Britain’s Prince Philip whose son once wrote he wished to be a feminine healthcare product so as to be closer to his lover and now wife. He’s the one that the late Princess Diana, no shrinking violet herself, had all those problems with.

Joseph Needham, a Cambridge scholar with Chinese characteristics.

It’s a strange world.

New stuff……..

Xiamen Airlines planes are Boeing 737s or Airbus 300 series.  You get food for nothing even on short flights.  I can take a  RT flight to places within an hour and a half of Shanghai (say 600 miles) for something like $150.

Most of the planes have overhead TVs and at the early and ending parts of the flight they’ll show a map of where you are and screens with the particulars of your flight: airspeed, altitude, time to destination and outside air temperature for example.  In between times they show clips and cartoons.  The clips are usually from America’s Funniest Home Videos showing people falling off things, running into things or otherwise losing their composure.   I’ll bet the folks who signed the release for those never imagined they’d be seen on a plane tooling around China.  A cartoon of a big white bear and a small creature that looks like the Geico gecko is usually next until near landing time

Despite their popularity on Xiamen Airlines, these cartoons can’t hold a candle to Tom and Jerry (original Tom and Jerry cartoons) who dominate everywhere.

There are all kinds of unusual western touches that suddenly appear in odd places.  I was in Fuzchou, a city to the south of Shanghai along the coast, and suddenly heard “Home on the Range” from public speakers in the square.  I have no idea why.  I think I mentioned in an earlier posting that in Xiamen the street-washing trucks play “Happy Birthday” from a truck mounted loud-speaker for some reason; I’ve only heard that in Xiamen — in Shanghai, the trucks are silent except for the water.

We’ve taken some road trips from Shanghai as part of the recruiting efforts for the school I’m with.  Hangzhou is about two hours by car from Shanghai, Wenzhou is six.  Highway travel is highway travel and the Chinese “interstates” look like Interstates anywhere, usually with tolls.  At rest areas there are cafeteria style eateries, and lots of packaged foods.  Instant noodles are popular where a tub is prepackaged with noodles, packages of vegetables, meat and spices and a fork or chop sticks.  You can find hot water taps almost everywhere and the prepackaged noodles are cheap — half a buck (US) and popular.  Add hot water, wait a couple of minutes and you’ve got your meal.

Some of the surrounding towns are filled with very rich Chinese, Wenzhou in particular.  The number of Mercedes, BMWs, Audis and even Porches is astounding and there are streets full of high-end fashion shops.  Wenzhou and Wenling — about an hour from Wenzhou — have three-wheeled bike taxis that fit two or three people in the back over the two wheels and a guy who pedals in front.  Touring the shopping streets is pleasant and an interesting way to see these towns; half an hour of being hauled around by a guy with big calves costs less than ten bucks US. 

They don’t have these contraptions in Shanghai.

One of the hotels has video screens with advertising in the mens room, placed at every urinal.  I had no idea people shopped at urinals, but all they need to do is add a touchscreen and the line for the men’s room could exceed the lines normally for the girls.  

I’ve decided to stay in China for a while.  The school here (www.cic-ghc.com), has made me the centerpiece of their promotional activities since old white guys seem to lend credibility somehow. It’s a little weird to see yourself on ten foot banners and in newspaper ads — especially in Chinese.  But that’s led to a better deal and a chance to learn first hand about Chinese business practices, to meet more regular people (parents of prospective students and people in the education business), and to participate in the changes that are China.  

Banner Ad for Parents' Meeting

Banner Ad for Parents' Meeting

The school has helped locate a new apartment, much nicer and bigger, more than I need, but it turns out that two bedroom places are actually easier to find than one bedroom places so that’s the deal.  Two bedrooms, living room, two balconies, a big kitchen, a study, furnished with airconditioning and all the appliances in a modern building costs 4,000 RMB a month (divide by 6.8).  Utilities will cost maybe 400 RMB per month including Internet and cable TV. 

The school will pay for most if not all of that. 

It’s crazy, but if you need a place to stay when you are in Shanghai, let me know.

Recycler in Shanghai

I read recently that the Obama administration is setting new energy efficiency standards for light bulbs and household appliances.  It’s almost impossible to find and incandescent light bulb in China – they’re all flourescent; either tubes or the coiled ones that fit in regular sockets.  And people here recycle everything.  This guy’s wife is on the other side of his load of styrofoam and paper, pedalling her own bike while holding onto his, giving him extra power to move his load.  You see these folks everywhere along with the junk dealers who have three wheeled bikes, a bell and a small scale and collect anything imaginable.   Just outside the school the other day, right on the sidewalk, a guy with a hammer and screwdriver was beating the hell out of some home appliance; maybe an airconditioner, getting salvagable parts.  In the markets now, at least in all the bigger ones, if you don’t bring your own bag, you’ve got to pay a few cents to get one to carry your stuff.  It just became a rule and that was that.

The Deal in Shanghai

Last year, through July 2008, I taught at Jimei University as part of a joint degree program with a very small US college that managed to have four times the students in China (with no employees; only contractors through an intermediary company) than it has in the US where it is located.    The workload was ridiculous, with more than 22 contact hours each week and more than seven hundred kids and that with no teaching assistants or other support.

Some of us at an outing from the Guanghua College CIE Centre, Shanghai, China

Some of us at an outing from the Guanghua College CIE Centre, Shanghai, China

While the last deal was onerous, it paid better than average for China by a wide margin, albeit well below average for the US, and provided a mechanism for an extended stay that included a long-term residence permit, a foreign expert’s certificate and lodging — all at no expense to me.

Finding this new gig in Shanghai which I learned of through a recruiter, uncovered a whole new aspect of the education industry I’d never heard of before, in China or anywhere else. The workload is substantially less by a long shot.

There are many very wealthy people in China these days – someone told me the other day there were more than 300,000 millionaires — and the rich ones follow the Chinese tradition of sacrificing for their kids just like the poorer parents do.  The difference is that the level of sacrifice is proportionately smaller, but the absolute numbers are quite substantial.  Most rich parents aim to get their kids into the best colleges and universities in the west and have the money to do it.

Tapping into that need is an industry of preparatory schools getting kids ready to pass the SATs if it’s a US school they’re aiming for or for “A-levels” if they are headed for the UK or Europe.  So rather than complete the last year or two of Chinese high school, the kids of rich parents are often sent off to a finishing school that concentrates on preparation for foreign college entrance exams.  They forgo the Chinese National Exam which is the placement mechanism for Chinese colleges and universities and bet big on a foreign education.

The program I’m with now is called a college, but it’s a prep school chartered by Cambridge University (the one in the UK), which has a subsidiary business chartering and providing materials for the British “AS” and “A” level entrance examinations.  I never heard of them before I  started poking around for another gig in China.

Chinese kids looking to go to Cambridge, Oxford or a host of other UK (or European and some others) colleges and universities study what seems like advanced placement level courses in physics, chemistry, economics and math, plus a big dose of English for two or three years to get ready for the entrance exams and English tests (IELTS – International English Language Testing System).  It’s all college level classes and the exams are tough.

Get this:  these preparatory schools, which are all private businesses,  charge tuition in excess of 70,000 RMB a year (more than US$10,000), which is almost what four years of college will cost at a typical Chinese university.   It’s an enormous sum of money in China where a decent wage for most workers is well less than 5,000 RMB a month.  One school here in Shanghai, affiliated with Shanghai Normal University (they all try to affiliate with some regular school), accepted less than three twenty five kids from two thousand applicants.  The demand here is huge.

The school I’m working for now (teaching economics), is new with no track record, but even they will have more than 100 kids in their first year.  Cambridge International Examination Centre (CIE) prep schools are popping up all over.   The better ones also provide SAT preparation and preparation for other new and evolving entrance exams for western colleges and universities.

A complementary industry here that works in concert with the prep schools coaches kids and their parents through the college application and Visa process so the kids actually go someplace after the pass the entrance exams.  Those are private enterprises too, so popular that the Chinese government has suspended licensing any more of them.  They can charge the equivalent of US$5,000 to help some kid apply to Harvard or MIT.  One smart CIE Centre here in Shanghai bought one of these advisory companies and got around the licensing problem that way and integrated the advisory/application support business into their prep school — raising tuition to cover the added value.

Education for the offspring of the very wealthy here is big business and there are plenty of them.  dsc_0464

If you want to come to see China for an extended period, one of the easiest ways is as an English teacher.  China needs thousands of them all over the country.  The pay is lousy by US standards, maybe $800 a month, but still more than a Chinese teacher and more than most workers.  And you get housing and part of your ticket paid.  Dave’s ESL Cafe is a good place to find a gig  (http://www.eslcafe.com/jobs/china/).

Academic subjects pay more, but the one’s that teach the material in English are a little more scarce.  The CIE centers and a joint degree program with a US college or university will pay the best and better yet are the few accelerated graduate degree programs suited for professors from western colleges who fly in for a couple of weeks to do an intensive course or two.  They get western pay scales, but those slots are few and usually taken by people already associated with the foreign college or university.

Seeing China over an extended period is an experience not to be missed.  This is the fastest changing place on the planet — beyond the industrial revolution — and you will never get a real sense of it from National Geographic or CNN.

Getting Around

Pudong Airport is one of two that serve Shanghai.  It’s not close to the city, but east of it, and shares air traffic with Hongqiao Airport which is a little closer and to the southwest of the city center.  Pudong is JFK in New York to Hongqiao’s Laguardia and takes all the International traffic.  Hongqiao is all domestic.

I landed at Pudong when I came to Shanghai in February and flew into Pudong last night from a long weekend in Xiamen to see friends and colleagues I knew when I was at Jimei University last year.  Xiamen is about ninety minutes by air from Shanghai, flights cost between $100 and $170 roundtrip depending on time and day. I took Shanghai’s “Maglev” train from the airport to the nearest subway stop — about a ten minute ride at a top speed on this route of 301 kilimeters per hour.  That’s about 187 miles per hour.  Maglev is short for magnetic levitation.  The airport connection Maglev (about 18 miles) goes as fast as 260 miles per hour, but we took our time.  Maglev means the train moves suspended in nothing by magnetic forces so there’s little or no friction.  The ticket cost 40RMB or about $5.20, expensive for China, but more convenient and faster than bus or taxi to the subway.  About what is costs to get into Manhatten via one of the bridges or tunnels.

The Maglev technology is German.

Bug splatters take on a whole new meaning at high speeds!

Bug splatters take on a whole new meaning at high speeds!

New York has no Maglev or even a subway link to Laguardia or Kennedy airports.  Long, expensive taxi rides, weird combinations of bus and subway, or buses are the less-than-convenient modes of travel.   Why is that?   We’re supposed to be good a things.

The long weekend of the  Qing Ming (Ching Ming) Festival, China’s equivalent to Memorial Day, is a big deal here.  Traditionally Chinese families gather to “sweep” the tombs of their ancestors.  They go to the gravesite or a temple and burn ersatz money for their ancestors’ well-being and offer fruit and good thoughts — often “talking” to their departed kin or reading letters or asking for advice.

Veteran's Ceremony at Qingming on Gulangyu, Xiamen

Veteran's Ceremony at Qingming on Gulangyu, Xiamen

On Gulangyu islet, in Xiamen where I stayed for the weekend, I came upon a memorial ceremony honoring military veterans.  The Japanese first when they occupied Xiamen late in World War II and later civil war diehards in Taiwan caused Xiamen and the surrounding islands some grief.  I watched school kids drape red boyscout scarves around the necks of old Chinese vets and too many people shared a hand in carrying colorful tribute wreaths on tripod stands to the memorial stone much as they do everywhere in the world.

Veteran's Recognition
Veteran’s Recognition

Two honored vets

Two honored vets

Construction here is quick and very practical.  Everywhere it seems there is construction.  I see people mixing concrete by hand on the street, taking whatever room they need.  Mixing concrete seems to be universal in technique.   Mix sand, stone sometimes and cement in some proportions ( I remember 1, 2 and 3 for shovelsful of cement, sand and stone) and heap it all into a pile; then dig out the center like a volcano and put water in the hole.
These three photos I took over two days on Gulangyu where a small shop was being refurbished.  The plumbing is barely subsurface (pragmatic people), everything is done by hand, and the two or three folks doing the job worked from early in the morning until late at night (after 10).  That’s typical in China from what I’ve seen.

Plumbing installation -- practical, shallow and not too sophisticated....there is no building permit or inspector.
Getting the first tiles down - mortar on sand.
Same day.............same two people

Same day.............same two people

Oddities

Shanghai is the financial capital of China with a wealthy population and very modern features.  The subway and architecture of new buildings rival any other city anywhere.  At the same time, it’s impossible to take China out of Shanghai and the old ways die hard.

Tucked into every street and every nook and cranny are small shops and stores, many only a single garage-door wide if that.  I met a shop owner today who is opening a women’s accessories shop on Monday, just six days from today.  She told me she has had two other shops, all small and all hers.  The rent for the space is 3,000 RMB per month, about $450 or so.

I’m going to ask her if  my Economics class can follow her business a little to see how she does.  It will be good for them to compare theory to reality.   Of course that’s just a dodge to collect information myself.  The entrepreneurial spirit is just ingrained for the Chinese I know and see here; it was the same in Xiamen.  Tons of small businesses popping up everywhere, with no consideration for economy of scale.

New Accessories Shop Under Construction

New Accessories Shop Under Construction

For some reason, small metal working shops are all over the place, here in Shanghai, in Xiamen and in the other places I’ve visited.   The products are of two types predominantly: window frames and stainless steel grates or doors like prison windows and doors.   The shops all look the same, about the size of a one-car garage, and most of the work, including welding, is done on the sidewalk or curbside in front of the shops.

Metal Shop

Metal Shop

And there are other very small shops selling all sorts of new and used stuff.  The Chinese throw nothing away.  So there are used-everything shops all over ranging from air-conditioners to electrical appliances, to mobile phones and cooking equipment.

Used stove parts store.

Used stove parts store.

And little food and vegetable shops are everywhere.  Every afternoon, near my apartment a dozen push cart vendors appear to catch the folks coming home from work.   They sell food, including made-while-you-wait noodle dished, barbequed skewers of marinated pork, vegetables, some fried stuff; DVDs, flowers, an assortment of purses and bags…………..and for some reason, a lot of socks.

Basket of Fresh Choy, A very good veggie, hard to find small, tender ones like this in the US markets.

Basket of Fresh Choy, A very good veggie, hard to find small, tender ones like this in the US markets.

Speaking of fresh food, It’s springtime here and not unusual to see older women weeding.  I saw two weeding the planters in front of a bank and this one in the photo was weeding in front of a shopping mall.  They’re not really weeding, they’re actually picking various green things that are apparently edible.  They look like weeds to me, but these gals are particular and go only for the good stuff.  I did see people actually weeding, a whole big section of grass bordering a park.  All by hand, with little metal diggers……………about ten guys all working away.  No Scott’s Turfbuilder plus anything used here.

Gatherer.............what's cooking for dinner?

Gatherer.............what's cooking for dinner?

Fixes bikes maybe................or saving the bike fixer's spot.

Fixes bikes maybe................or saving the bike fixer's spot.

Common scene in my neighborhood.........generic transport and recycler

Common scene in my neighborhood.........generic transport and recycler

Old Shanghai

I went to see Old Shanghai this weekend.  The weather was overcast as it has been, but cleared by later in the day.  It takes about an hour to get to the nearest subway and then ride the eleven stops to People’s Square, the big subway interchange and starting point for the Nanjing Road pedestrian mall which runs from People’s Square for nearly a mile to The Bund, along the river.

There are few if any westerners in the suburbs, but in People’s Square and on the mall there are many more and by the time you get to the river, there are more still, littered with them, from all over the world.

Pedestrian Mall, East Nanjing Road
Pedestrian Mall, East Nanjing Road

The old part of Shanghai is along the Huangpu River.  Facing the river is a long curved boulevard lined with European style buildings built at the end of the 19th Century and the early part of the 20th when the west, principally European powers dominated the coastal regions of China winning territorial concessions. Parts of Shanghai are still known as the French Concession area among others.

European architecture along The Bund................
European architecture along The Bund…………….

From the mid-nineteenth century, Britain ran a drug trade in China making fortunes for it’s merchants who imported opium from other British colonies to Chinese coastal cities where big segments of the Chinese populace became addicted and useless.  When Chinese authorities objected, forcibly, the Opium Wars began and western powers prevailed giving way to enormous concessions on the part of the Chinese.   Think of the upper East Side of Manhatten or Fisherman’s Wharf in San Francisco as sovereign territory of Columbia because the US objected to Columbian drug cartels selling crack and lost a coastal war Columbia waged to enforce their drug trade and protect their drug merchants.

Hong Kong, under British control until the end of the last Century, was an Opium War concession.

It’s a wonder the Chinese have anything to do with the West.

img_33911

Now the only remnants of European concessions is the wide boulevard and buildings that line it and some beautiful neighborhoods nearby.  Across the boulevard is a broad walkway along the river, opposite Pudong, the new skyline of modern buildings, sky scrapers and “the needle,” which was about the only significant structure on the Pudong side ten years ago.   The Pudong skyline dwarfs “The Bund,” a German name for the sweeping boulevard area and European architecture on the near side, opposite Pudong.

img_33641The river banks are a mecca for tourists on both sides.  And there’s a ferry and lots of river traffic including barges of all types, tour boats and the rest.  I saw one floating billboard, an all electronic video screen on a boat, advertising the latest movies for some cinema complex.

Huge Floating Billboard

Huge Floating Billboard

Tour groups are easy to spot, grouped together in baseball caps of the same color or snaking around behind a leader holding up a small flag or banner, wearing a small amplifier and headset.  I met a group of Russians, they all looked like they came from somewhere in Kansas.

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By the end of the afternoon, the sun was out and it was a beautiful day……easy to forget the tragedy of this city and enjoy the weather.

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Shanghai Stuff

Shanghai is quite a bit more expensive than Xiamen. The taxi meter here starts at 11 RMB versus 7 RMB in Xiamen. Food too. Five Valencia (Sunkist) Oranges cost 20 RMB, about three bucks. For twenty EMB in Xiamen last year, I could have bought enough fruits and vegetables for a week. There are some things here from the States — not much. Washington State has apples all over the place; there are some cleaning and laundry products; a couple that paste small stickers with Chinese over the regular English labels; Oreos and Lays chips (in a zillion flavors); and Skippy peanut butter seem popular.

Marginal retailers like Mary Kay, Tupperware and Amway have storefronts. KFC is huge; Papa John’s and Pizza Hut are busy and Mickey D’s runs fourth; few Burgher Kings. I’ve seen Hagan Daz and Cold Stone Creamery; a lot of Nike, Adidas and Disney stores, a big GM Headquarters building, but not is as good a spot as the Masaretti and Mercedes dealerships along Nanjing Road.

There are a lot of cars……..most high end — BMWs in particular. Recycling is all over the place; incandescent light bulbs are very rare and every roadway has bike and motorbike lanes with bicycles outnumbering the motorbikes by about five to one.

Traffic is more civilized here; it’s not blow-and-go, first one wins as much as in Xiamen.  Fewer trucks……….many more cars.

A concert in Shanghai

Shanghai is big…………

It’s a cosmopolitan city, financial capital of China, with two airports, a terrific subway system, and all sorts of shopping and neighborhoods.  It’s as modern in some ways as any other city, but all over are examples of old China, with small stalls selling everything, push carts and individual enterprise.

When I was at Jimei University in Xiamen, a singer from Taiwan came to the campus for a concert.  She is known in China as Rene, or “Milk Tea,” I think because of her voice in some way.  One of my students had an obsession for this individual and everything “Milk-Tea” dominated her life.  In any event, another Taiwanese singer made an appearance whose name is Cheer Chen or in Chinese, Chen Chi Chen.  She’s got a kind of smokey, husky voice,  pleasant to listen to — something akin to Emmy-Lou Harris or Dusty Springfield if you know them.  I liked her a lot more than Milk-Tea who seemed like an older woman playing a school child — badly.

Ms. Chen was playng Shanghai last week and I went to the show.

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There was a lot of staging, huge video displays, all kinds of lighting effects and a huge crowd — all of which is customary at almost any contemporary live music event.  Except in China, there is no applause.  None.  So after a song, no matter the style or tempo, there is some shouting, some banging of inflated tubes and colored batons, but no clapping — even for an encore.

Seemed a little odd.

Also a little odd was a two and a half hour show with no intermission and singer who decided she wanted to sing a little more, so she extended the show.   I had no idea what the songs were about, only one was in English, but she writes all her own stuff and plays a range of guitars including acoustic and with no little skill.

The Taiwan thing, with two China’s and all that is a lot of baloney when it comes to the practical realities of China – in China.  People go back anf forth all the time now, and entertainment is completely borderless which Chinese performers from Taiwan touring all over China drawing huge audiences.  Why we insist on selling arms to Taiwan these days over the objections of the rest of China sure looks dumb from this side.

Anyway, it was an interesting way to see a little of Shanghai.  Here are some photos:

Back again………….

The experience in China from September 2007 through mid-July 2008 was outstanding. It was so outstanding, I decided to come back after a decent interval in the U.S. That turned out to be about eight months and I arrived in China for a redux at the end of February, 2009.

This time I’m in Shanghai, a huge city near the coast, further north than Xiamen and a lot bigger. Shanghai officially has about 21 million people, but counting is a little haphazard and not everyone wants to be counted. Estimates are as many as 25 million.

My preference was to get back to Xiamen, which is a town that can grow on you, but having not been there for the Fall term, the folks who were there took the slots for the Spring term. Seniors in Chinese colleges and universities don’t take many (if any) classes in their last semester and find internships, so the requirement for foreign teachers drops considerably in the Spring term.

In any event, a situation came up here in Shanghai, Shanghai is in China, so here I am.

Teaching English

Teaching English is not what I am supposed to do here, except for introducing new words associated with Strategy, Organizational Behavior or Leadership to kids who might not know the technical meaning of a word like ”Vision” or “Socialization” or “Charisma” as applied to those academic areas.  Nevertheless the greatest, almost universal demand here among young people, say up to thirty years old or so, is to speak English. 

 If word gets out that you are a native English speaker here in China, ninety-eight percent of the people you meet, however you meet them, will ask you if you will help them learn English.

More correctly it is “to speak English,” not to learn English.  Learning English is a major past-time here, bookstores are overflowing in a variety of English learning books, DVDs and reference material including years of BBC, CNN and other English language media materials.  On any street of appreciable length, there will be a couple of commercial storefronts purporting to teach English – most always have people in their lobbies.  Between primary and high school, kids get about six years of English, much of which I gather from talking to people is memorizing a lot of big words. 

Students are more current on movies from the west that you are and can download virtually any film or TV show they want to see — free — in less than an hour, some with subtitles, most without.  They hear English everywhere.  Sometimes during between class periods on the campus here, the campus-wide public address system plays English-language interview and commentary programs.

One of the reasons Chinese government officials and pronouncements sound so stiff and silly is how people in China learn English — including memorizing a zillion big and arcane words — the more complex the better — sans nuance or inflection, but without a lot of insight as to how they are commonly used or if they are used with any frequency at all. 

Here is what a kid wrote in a Strategy assignment:

“The profit abilities that the competition strength together comes to a decision a company, and point out the strategic core of company.”   He had good words there……..no shortage of good English words in China; but there is a big problem of context and a huge problem in spoken English for reasons I’ll get to in a minute.

I know a bunch of English words,  but do not recollect ever seeing “solecism” until I came to China.  Some kid used it, correctly, in a paper.  I had to look it  up – it means a breach of good manners or etiquette.  Or how about virescence?  Terrific word — never heard of it before a Chinese student used it in a paper about the environment.  It means the state or condition of becoming green especially with plants due to the development of chloroplasts in plant organs (as petals) normally white or colored.

Chinese kids I see do not need to learn the words for ball, cat, truck or flower; or even for government, gradiant or gigantic – they do need to know how to use them and say them so someone else understands what words they are saying and knows what they are talking about.

In fact, a business major in most Chinese colleges takes two or more classes in what are called “professional” subjects like marketing or finance using English-language textbooks taught  by a Chinese teacher in a mix of English and Chinese to assure comprehension.  Seniors in undergraduate programs in China write 30,000 word essays on assigned topics as their senior thesis which usually has to include articles they find somewhere that are written in English that they have to translate. 

Try getting a senior in a US undergraduate program to do the equivalent in a core course in his or her major.

Chinese kids are very facile with technology so they use cell phones (mobiles) and instant messaging (MSN and the Chinese version called QQ) incessantly (that means all the time for people who do not memorize zillions of big English words).  The don’t use e-mail much at all, since comparatively it’s too slow. So there are always typed messages flying around and I get them all the time.  What is curious is that kids and older people who have a terrible time with spoken English are pretty coherent in a typed message.  And some of them can carry on very sophisticated conversations on any topic with almost complete transparency — as though they were using English all their lives. 

The unusual thing is that some of these same people, if you meet them in person are stuck dumb at the thought of speaking the sentences they can so eloquently type!.  Sometimes it is like meeting two different people if you meet one of these folks in person — very weird. 

Part of the reason is that there are nowhere near enough native English speakers in China (meaning English is their first language so they are fluent and speak it well).  The numbers in China are so huge, there may never be enough.  So what happens is that most Chinese people are taught spoken English – how to say the words they know and can write and understand – by other Chinese people who were taught by other Chinese people, none of whom got to practice or interact with a native English speaker.  The result is like playing Gossip and by the time the third generation teacher gets to a student — no native speaker can easily recognize what they are saying. 

Speaking any language is all about confidence and knowing that you sound like you know what you are talking about.  Chinese are smart and like anyone else don’t want to make asses of themselves so unless they are sure about how to say something — most of them stay mute.  It’s a shame.

I’ve had about a thousand students now and it’s the same with most of them.  No confidence, no practice, no speakee. 

This is also true of people you meet in the street — shopkeepers, waiters, people in the market, on the bus almost everyone is trying to learn to speak English.   I was on a city bus not long ago going into get parts of me pushed around by that massage girl.  I was talking to two people on the bus — students whose English was passable — and the driver commented to them in Chinese that they were so lucky to be practicing English with a native speaker!

The demand is so great that there are native English speakers from all over the world in China, some qualified and legitimate and some shady characters on the lam from somewhere, teaching some version of English. There are some very spookie people traveling around Asia masquerading as teachers of English, the demand is so great and vetting so poor.  That odd duck pulled out of Thailand not long ago after “confessing” to killing JonBenet Ramsey is one of them.

 Since there are lots of places in the world that use some derivation of English as their native tongue, they come from places like the UK, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Pakistan, India, the Philippines and all over the US.  It can be totally confusing to a Chinese kid trying to pronounce words like machinery, mercantile or Michigan with all those accents.  Most of them can “see” through the accents better than I can.  One kid is going to graduate school in Scotland — that should be a trip.

I know enough about technology to know that the answer lies there since there will never be enough native English speakers in China to teach a billion people.   But many of the language learning companies that use technology to teach English haven’t figured out how to design a hybrid system that takes what the Chinese have already been exposed to and builds on it to fix context and spoken English.  Most start from zero and teach basic words, albeit in novel and effective ways, but don’t do what people want.  There are electronic learning devices in all the malls and stores that will do that for kids — touch the picture – hear the word; say the word – light up the picture; stuff like that. And the rest don’t use the technology very cleverly at all.  I am not sure why, perhaps the myopia of engineers and designers who think they know all there is to know without leaving home.  With voice recognition and speech synthesis that is available today — much wasted on video games and animated movies, somebody is going to make a ton of money teaching a zillion Chinese people how to say what they can write and be confident about it.

But there is a good chance that online and handheld translators like Google translate in a cell phone or the speaking calculators here now will beat a smart teaching tool to market and perhaps make teaching good, colloquial spoken English unnecessary.

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